You don't need fabric softener but I like to use it.  When you do, your clothes tend to come out a little less wrinkled.  I use both liquid and dryer sheets.  Mrs. Meyers and Seventh Generation both make fabric softeners.

No, I actually found that my daughter wass allergic to softeners when she was a baby. I haven't used them since. I do however, find dryer sheets helpful for keeping mosquitos away. Tuck one around your neck or in your hat and you'll be less bothered.

No you do not. I never used fabric softeners until the last 10 years. I found that with my mineral saturated well water, that my towels and sheets felt brittle at times. Using a hot dryer setting can really take the softness out of a fabric also. Do not use a lot or you will have a film of it left in the fabric. I like to use it sparingly and not with synthetics or they get droopy.

Ok, I just learned this trick myself. We have a woodburning stove insert with a glass door that is always covered with soot. I was constantly scrubbing, using bottles of window cleaner, vinegar, I tried everything. Then someone told me to use a damp piece of newspaper dipped in the ashes, scrub off the soot, wipe with a dry piece of newspaper and finish with a little window cleaner or vinegar. It works best when the window is still slightly warm, but even cold, it works! As to the screen, I'd be inclined to take it outside and hose it off. Wipe it with vinegar and dry with a soft cloth. The bricks, when they get sooty will need a stiff brush. I know they make cleaning solutions just for this, so check with the hardware store. Make sure to have the flu cleaned professionally in the spring to prevent chimney fires.

You can use silver polish that you can purchase at the grocery store. Cover the silver with the paste, let it dry slightly and buff with a dry cloth. You can also do touch ups with toothpaste. A hint from my friend, Nance.

I like the jars of jewelry cleaner that you put the jewelry in and shake, let them soak for a bit and then wipe with a soft cloth. Good jewely stores also sell a cloth specially designed for cleaning jewelry.

I use a paste I buy at the market, but I think I have seen a liquid now and that may be easier than getting the paste out of the detailed crevises of a design.

Well, if you don't have a washing machine available you can either go to the laundromat or drop it off at a cleaners and they will do it for you. It is a little more expensive to drop it off but it may be worth it because you waste alot of time at a laundromat. If you do have access to a washer and dryer...here are the basics.

First you must seperate bright colors, mixed colors, and whites for best results. The whites can take some bleach and hot water if you're not afraid of shrinkage. You put in your clothes without overcrowding select water temp (cold will do the trick and save energy), and just read the dial to select the type of wash cycles.

Then dry...put in dryer and select according to the dial either timed dry or an automatic setting. The hot setting will be the one to shrink your clothes...so you might want to hang dry certain jeans, etc.

Michele's instruction are good. I'd only add if you have stain, then you should soak the area with cold water and add a spot cleaner before you add it to the machine. After you wash is done, you should decide what needs to go into the dryer and what needs to be hung up to air dry. It would be good to have a small drying rack for that.

First, separate your colors and make a few piles of laundry, i.e whites, colors, delicate. Load the first group (whites) Choose the size and temp. Usually do the whites in normal temp , add detergent (can use bleach for whites) and start the machine. Depending on the size of the load-it can take anywhere from 20-45 minutes. Dark clothes should be done in cold water. Extra dirty clothes need a longer cycle and hot water. Be careful with those reds, they can bleed and turn everything pink.

There is a litttle reset on the bottom of most machines. First make sure switch is OFF. With your hand try to dislodge whatever you can. Manually push the blades if possible. Press reset button and try switch again.

I like Cyn's answer-never did it myself.

Make sure the switch is OFF before ever trying to put your hand in there. If you dislodge whatever is stuck and the blades start up, it will be ugly.

I have a "key" like thing that I ytaped under the sink. I have lost it before. It is actually an allen wrench and it fits into a home at the exterior of the disposal mounting under the sink. You fit it in and give it a shove. If you don't have this then follow Cindy's instruction.

Assuming we are talking about dry wall, spackle, you can get it at the hardware store. You will also need a putty knife, but a butter knife will do in a pinch, and sandpaper. Small holes, from nails or picture hangers are easy, larger holes will take more time and spackle paste. Keep the paste covered when you are not using it it dries fast. Fill the hole with the paste, spreading with your putty knife. Allow the paste to dry and then sand it down lightly until it's even with the wall, now you can paint. If it's a spot job match the paint carefully, Hopefully you saved some paint. If you are painting a room or whole wall, go through and spackle all the little holes before applying primer.

Glad you figured this out Michele, because I would just call my carpenter/ handyman friend to do it for me.

You need to have it regrouted. This is not necessarily a job for an amateur as you probably should remove the sink clean out the old adhesive and reapply on a dry clean surface. A plumber can be called for this job.

I would call the plumber, but first you could just try to tighten all the pipe fittings with a pipe wrench. If it is the edge around the sink then like Sally is saying, it could be crouting that needs to be replaced. I would call my friendly handyman for help... or my son Nick!

For a quick fix try just jiggling the flush handle. Another is to take the lid of the back reservoir and lift the arm with the float and just let it drop again. If the chain attached to the arm of the float is losing a link,or is loose, then maybe you can make do with adding a piece of wire, but I would try to get it replaced with the right chain eventually.  These are temporary fixes. If there is something else going on it might need more attention later. You should call the landlord if the toilet keeps running. In the long run, you will be paying for more water on the water bill along with the annoyance of obnoxious running noise of the toilet.

It really depends on what the stain is from. One thing to remember is to mop up any liquid on a wood floor right away. The longer the liquid is there, they harder it will be to get out.  If it is a grease stain, rub salt over and use s dry cloth  to rub the area.  If it's water stain, use toothpaste to clean.

The best way I found is using dishwasher powder. Wet tub first and then sprinkle the powder from the box creating a paste like coating. Let stay over night. You can also do the same with comet and zud is good for getting out the rust stains.

I like to use a bleaching product. Soft Scrub has a gel that is non-abrasive.

Scrub it as clean as you can with some Brillo..then fill it and boil some water.

Fill the dish with a large squeeze of liquid dishwasher (cascade), hot water and soak the rest of the day. Drain and scrub with a SOS pad.

Fill with boiling water and add 2 tablespoons of baking soda. Soak for a little while.

When it is stuck on badly, you will want to soak it. If you need it done now, then use hot water. Try putting it on the stove to a low simmer and bubble off to loosen what you can. Then it takes elbow grease and a good scrubber.

Try using  a blow dryer and regular mild dish detergent. Turn on the blow dryer on high and blow hot air on the crayon marks. This makes the crayon easier to work with. Using a cleaning cloth or a paper towel with a little liquid dish detergent, gently wipe away the crayon marks. This method is safe to use on most wall surfaces, but test first in a hidden spot to be sure.

 I fell your pain on this one! I like things clean but I tend to stuff everything in my closet. At least once a season, I do a clean out.  Try this technique and let me know how it works for you.

• Start with a bunch of garbage bags and try to fill at least one with things that you haven't worn in two years.
• Get rid of clothes that don't fit or out of style
• if you have a place to store things, like a basement-take the out of season clothes out and store in bags or wardrobe
• pull everything out of the closet in sections-like, sweater, shirts, pants
• refold and stack on the shelves
• hang clothes in an organized way too-shirts, pants, dresses
• match the shoes in pairs
• sweep the floor

I've alway heard to use club soda but that's probably why I drink white wine.

Try pouring soda water or sparkling water and have a paper towel or kitchen towel to blot the water up off the spot. If it is a rug, use lots of water. Start with just a little spot though to be sure that the dye in the rug doesn't run.

 If you hear scratching especially at night through your walls you may have a squirrel, rat, chipmunk or mice living in your attic.  Place a Have a Heart Trap baited with some peanut butter to catch a larger animal, and mouse traps or poison to control mice.  Be sure to check these traps to see if you have caught what you've heard!  Place poisons where pets can't get at them.  I just got rid of a squirrel in my attic. Read the blog.

There are products specifically for this purpose. I use Zud which is a powder that works fine. Clean your toilet regularly and you should not have this problem.

They sell those sprays you can spray when you are done showering.....otherwise Comet or Ajax works well.

A Soft Scrub - like product.  I like to use the sponges with a side that is gently abrasive.

 This is when you call a tile guy to help you!  Unless you want to get into real renovation, you might make the matter worse! I'm referring you to"This Old House" for help.  Check the link below.

The trick is to leave some air between the logs. The shape and depth of the fireplace needs to be considered as well. You need kindling or wood that will light easiest on the bottom. Always put bark side down because that lights the easiest.

 If the stain is from a grease, then apply salt, let it sit for a bit and wipe clean. If the stain is still there, keep re-applying and repeating the process until it's gone.  Salt acts as an absorbent.  If the stain is from water then wipe dry, apply toothpaste (not gel) and rub with a dry cotton cloth.  Repeat until all the stain is gone.

I've also heard that using an iron or hair dryer on wet stains. I haven't tried this yet but will research it.

Paint! Paint changes a look quicker than anything. Clean and wash down the cabinets, prepare the surface by rubbing the cabinets with a fine steel wool. Vacuum up the dust. Pick the same base of paint (oil or latex) in the color you'd like to change to. You'll probably need two or three coats to cover old paint or stain. After the paint dries, change the handles. There's all kinds of new and fun kitchen hardware now that can be purchased on line or in stores. It's simple to change!

 NO!!! this is probably the worst combination.  The two products produce a deadly toxic mixture. Try cleaning with a natural  product first.

In starting a fire I like to use some of the little fire starters that you find at the markets. There are products made locally in your neighborhood that are sawdust and parafin. These are simple and effective. Weber makes a little firestarter that is parafin sort of in a icetray plastic thing... I really like as little plastic packaging as possible, but these work very effectively. Sometimes with some nicely cut kindling and a couple of smaller sized logs I can start a fire with these products and NO paper.

• stack 3 to 5 pieces of kindling
• set the little parafin starter in the middle of these
• have two smaller peices of your firewood laying across the top.
• light it up

I hope it works for you!

•  Really good eye sight! 
• raise the foot of the machine to the highest level
• thread from front to back
• load the bobbin
• turn the needle wheel around once to catch the thread from the bobbin
• pull up and separate the threads pulling a extra inch or two
• place fabric under the needle foot and place foot down on the fabric
• ready to sew

If you want them to look clean you must separate. Dark colors, normal colors, and whites you can bleach and use hot water.

Yes, separate into colors and whites

 I am adamant about laundry sorting. Too many whites and pale and pastel colors can loose there spark when washed haphazardly with other colors. Some fabrics just look dirty and their color muddied when they have blended with other fabrics and colors in the wash.

I sort for color and fabric type. Delicates and synthetics such as ladies underwear, bras, slips, panties, stockings( I used to hand wash stockings but find that washed cold on a Delicate or Hand Wash setting they can make it through a cycle just fine). I wash towels alone usually. They can un-balance the washer if the fabrics are of different wet weight.

•  Don't know anything but toliet paper down the toliet. 
• when getting rid of cooking oil or grease-turn on the water very hot and use some de-greasing detergent in the pan before you pour it down.  Keep the water running for a few minutes after

• Do not put asparagus, artichokes, celery, or onion skins down the garbage disposal.
• Some tampons are flushable , but if you are in an older house with sensitive plumbing, just don't do it.
• Do not flush condoms down the toilet.

If you can't soak it out over night, throw it away. If you don't get the scorch mark off the pan, you'll continue to burn food in that spot.

Fill the pan halfway with water and 1/4 cup of baking soda and boil. Loosen burned food with a wooden spoon.-I usually throw it away.

If you have good sturdy pots and pans then you should be able to get it off. I use a product called Kleen King that cleans stainless and copper. It is an abrasive powder cleanser. Put some water in the pot and sprinkle some of this. Then scrub and if it all doesn't come out, scrub again. This stuff is also good for the filmy looking stuff left when you can't get stuck on rice or pasta off the bottom of a pot.

Also the baking soda soak like Michelle says works. Put water in the pot, add some baking soda to cover the bottom, turn on to simmer for 15 to 30  minutes, maybe even an hour on low. Then take it off and scrape the pan with a wooden spoon. Repeat if it all doesn't come off. Repeat until it does.

Try to collect some sturdy stainless pans... Products by Adaimo, Atlas, Viking. The Calphalon gets discolored after a while. I have had my Atlas pans for 25 to 30 years now and sometimes the handle attachment has loosened, but the pan cleans up with the slightest elbow grease(what an odd term) and you'll have them for years. I have found that you have to really burn something for the pan to burn with these sturdy and beautiful stainless pots and pans. They are very expensive. Ask you parents for some for gifts from time to time. Your local kitchen store will carry these and William Sonoma and Sur la Table does for sure.If you buy a really good stainless pan, you will not ever have to throw it away.

All the tools that you seem to never find when you need them. A hammer, some nails, pliers, a wrench, and of course the Phillips-head  and regular screwdriver, some duct tape. As you go on the tool box will gather more tools from projects that arise.

Tape measure, level and stud finder

• A hammer
• Screw driver: regular and Phillips-head
• Pliers
• Wrench
• Pipe wrench
• Nails of different sizes, picture hanging nails with hooks
• Tape measure
• Duct tape
• Small level

For me rubber gloves, a sponge, and Comet. Got to watch that blue stiff if there are dogs in the house partaking in a drink now and then. Those scrub brushes are popular but they are so ugly and germy.

On the whites only...but not on silk.

Use bleach to keep your whites white. I used to use it every time. Now I just use it once in a while. Sometimes the odor gets to me in the house so I only use it every couple of white loads. I like to use an Extra Rinse setting to get all the bleach out. The strong smell of bleach on your clothes and towels and sheets can irritate your eyes and your nose. I even like to wash these bleached whites a second time if they have a very strong bleach scent. There are scented bleaches now too.

A matter of personal preference but some machines may recommend what they say works best for performance.

I always use powder, but thinking about it, a liquid might be nice as I still sometimes get a soap residue of the powder in my dishwasher. At least you can see the powder. The liquid might leave some translucent residue. I guess I really don't know....